Hiking Buddha: It’s Been So Hard. April 8, 2022. Day 38. Mile 478

Honestly, I've avoided saying this for a while. I know yinz have such faith in me that I didn't want to disappoint. But, honestly I've been so frustrated at times that I've thought of giving up. Time after time I've gotten my hopes up thinking this will be the day I make this work. But, time and time again I've been disappointed. I look at my trail guide to see what's ahead and where I can get a break from repeatedly finding that I just can't do it. But, I hate the thought of quitting so soon. I've only been blogging for a month. Who knew that blogging would be so hard!!

So far I've been 0/8 on hostels and hotels promising computers with this symbol in my AT Guide.

And, the few libraries I could get to were either closed or closed shortly after I arrived. But today is different. Today I'm sitting at a lovely new computer with a large monitor at the Damascus Public Library. And, they don't close for hours! I'll review hundreds of pictures, select a few, crop some and add them to this post. Yay!! This blog post is getting done today!!

And the hiking has been gorgeous, fun, faster and easier. I have been hiking through amazing beautiful, biologically rich habitats of the border between western North Carolina and eastern Tennessee - the trail runs along the border of these two mountainous states.

It's Been So Much Fun

I've been putting on the miles. Sitting here in Damascus I have completed AT sections in Georgia, North Carolina & Tennessee and have hiked over 472 miles. For the last 300 miles I've been hiking with my new friend “Martian” since I entered the Great Smokey Mountain National Park. We have been racing along the trail at the same pace. Everyone on trail says we're fast. And, we are when hiking. But, we also love taking off-trail excursions to find rare plants, visit old growth forests and check off 6,000 foot peaks that are near but not on the trail. So far, I've crested these big ones:

Mt Buckley 6,560 ft.
Mt. Love 6,400 ft.
Mt. Kephart's 6,217 ft.
Mt. Collins 6,188 ft.
Mt Ambler 6,120 ft.
Roan High Knob 6,186 ft.
and nearly to the top of Mt Chapman, Sequoyah and Old Black

Martian

His folks call him Bruce, but he's Martian on trail. Like The Martian's Mark Watney (played by Matt Damon), my Martian is a botanist. So, I have been learning a lot about Rhododendron, orchids, spruce and fir. We extensively explored and documented the range of Rhododendron Smokianum, a recently identified species that only grows on steep (near 90 degree) rock cliffs above 5,500 feet where rain is plentiful and the soil rich in magnesium and iron, and only in the Smokey Mountains of Tennessee. We found it all over the cliffs at The Jump Off, Charlie's Bunion and surprisingly in several other sites that may represent additional habitats for this rare species. Thanks to Martian there are dozens of hikers on trail who now know all about the rare Rhododendron Smokianum, R Catawbiense and R. carolinianum, and other beautiful native plants.

Rhododendron smokianum

We've also made sure to get up early to watch the sun rise from Clingman's Dome, highest point on the AT. We got up a couple of hours before dawn to hike the three miles with our friend Harmony and were the only ones atop this famous peak with 360 degree views when the sun rose.

And, on a morning that promised 70 mph wind gusts we awoke to light rain and moderate wind so we headed out pre-dawn to reach the Mt. Cammerer Lookout. We were rewarded for our adventure with clearing skies and a rainbow.

So, you might not be too surprised that Martian, his friend Charlie and I also hiked late to watch the sun set from Max Patch.

And, Martian, Aaron and I set up camp at Big Bald shelter then ran back a mile to catch the sunset on Big Bald where we were joined by a confident young deer. Ahhh, the views!

Unlike the blogging, the hiking has been getting easier by the day. I mean I huff and puff (long slow deep breathes) for 8 - 10 hours each day. If the temp reaches the 50s I sweat like a water sprinkler. My right calf starts the day in a knot. But, three hours later the calf feels better and my hamstring takes over - tightening up as I hike to the top of the mountain of the moment. One ankle or another feels slightly tender. And, I know where my hip flexors are! But, I keep hiking. One foot in front of the other. Repeat. And, the pain fades into the past as the miles increase.

Speed and Distance Are One of My Things

Over the past weeks Martian and I have extended our daily miles from 15 to 18 and most recently 24. We like hiking fast. Martian leads and I keep up. We power up the hills and recover on the downs. And, if the downs are gentle or we're really motivated ... to get to town for beer and lunch .. we run. Weeks ago I hiked at 2 miles an hour on average. A 16 mile hike would take 8 hours. Lately, I'm covering ground at 2.5 miles per hour. And, yesterday we completed our 18 mile day in under 6 hours of hiking.

Why so fast? Well, climbing a 2,000 foot peak is a lot of work with a pack on your back. But, climbing it slowly, taking breaks on the way up is interminably tortuous compared to racing up to the top and catching your breath on the way down the other side. And, I do want to finish this thing in less than five months if possible. So, with Martian as my pacer, I move quickly through the woods. And, it's fun.

People Are Everything

And, above the beauty of orchids, Rhododendron tunnels and 360 degree mountaintop views lies the loving kindness of strangers. There are so many stories of folk I've met that have extended an open hand, warmed me with a smile or given my sweatiness a hug.

Shortly after exiting the Great Smokey Mountains the trail crosses Newfound Gap, a popular site for locals, tourists and other day visitors. The hike north from the gap is busy with families, friends and others enjoying a beautiful day trip to the mountains. Claudia Torres, a science teacher from Miami greets me as I huff and puff up the hill she is descending with her two sons, Matias and Lucas. They asked about my plan to hike all the way to Maine along this trail. They were kind, compassionate and my heart was filled. My pack felt lighter. My steps were quicker. I was lifted once again by the loving kindness of strangers. Well, Claudia, Matias and Lucas are strangers no more. Be well, my friends and thanks for your supporting love.

Claudia Torres and sons Matias & Lucas

Trail angels also make our days easier, surprising us with cold drinks, snacks and more when we hit a road crossing on the trail, need a lift to the grocery store or back to the trail from town.

Aya took us to our hotel in Erwin, TN and also drove me to the library. Trail angels like Brother Tom, Cookiemon, Zoomie, Ito and O.G. Bob have appeared with food at road crossings. Angels truly all. Thanks to their kindness the trail is made easier.

Brother Tom met us with hot bevs and treats

Aqua Man offers yummies

Cookiemon, Zoomie, Ito and O.G. Bob feed hungry hikers

I need a photo of Aya 😐

Martian, Harmony, Freedom & Gorby at Newfound Gap with ice cold beer left by a trail angel

And, at Carvers Gap, Tennessee Martian and I met up with my 2018 hiking friend, and member of my Tramily, Sweet Tea (Anna Jones) and her mom, Susan. They fed us a great meal and after an hour we hiked north with belly's and hearts full. Love you, Sweet Tea. Only thing sweeter would have been if her husband and 2018 tramily member, Moose, aka Brandon Jones, had been able to join us. Miss you, too, my friend.

In Roan Mountain, TN we stayed at the Exchange at 19E, where we met some hiker friends, played some games and enjoyed the music that abounds there. Gail Attaway Elkins, an accomplished pianist at the Ballet Conservatory of Asheville, regaled me with stories of her experiences playing for the Bolshoy Ballet, B.B. King and more. What a treat! Check her out here.

Gail Attaway Elkins entertains at The Station at 19E

Sprinkles, Lindsey, Jordan, JukeBox play HeadsUp with Martian

More Friends at Every Bend

I keep meeting the most wonderful folk out here. Jordan, one of my new friends put it well. When you meet folks in a normal social setting you have to figure out if they're the kind of folk you would want to know. Out here, it's almost certain that you will. Below, a small sampling of the great folk I have met recently. Wish I could post more, but as you know I have to finish this post and publish it today.

I will be back to you in a couple of weeks. If you want to here when I post please find the subscribe link and you'll be the first to know when I post next.

Be well,

John "Buddha" Inserra

Every day is a journey and the journey itself is home.

~Matsuo Basho