Monday, April 25, 2022

Oh What A Night | April 25 2022 | Day 54 | Mile 535.1

Double Spring Shelter was full, of course.  With a storm threatening and the nearest shelters eight miles north or south there would be no room at the inn tonight.  All six slots would be full.  

And, they were all taken when we arrived around 6.  The folks in the shelter were glad to have gotten space. I know I would have been.  Large trees were already swaying in the wind.  Set atop an amphitheater valley, there were no flat spaces nearby to pitch my tent.  Two Ball let us know there was room for one maybe two tents down near the springs where he had pitched.  I pitched my tent and Martian squeezed his in between Two Ball and I.  A quick dinner and time for bed.

I slid into my shelter.  A four year old Nemo Horney 2 person tent.  I was comfy in this tent.  And, at just over two pounds it was light weight.  But,  it was four years old with a 3 1/2 year old patched and re-patched mouse hole in the floor, and seams that had started coming apart during a few windy nights. I'd been regluing seems since Franklin, North Carolina. So, counting the seconds tween boom and flash I dozed off wondering how wet I'd get.  


I awoke at 5:50.  The percussion of steady rain and wind on my tent fly replaced the morning sound of birds.  I was pleasantly surprised to note that I was dry and warm as I silenced the alarm.  I called over to Martian.  He groaned his awakeness.  I was well rested, comfy, and dry.  I did not relish getting out of my tent or to pack up in the rain. And, while the birds were quiet in the downpour I could hear Martian questioning simply how his new tent was wet inside.  F---! F---!  F---! His new tent had water inside!  He was not happy.  I felt a bit smug in my dryness. 

Right then, headlamp retrieved from it's night spot above my head, I sit up, and my toes sense a cool corner in the bottom of my bag.  Then the light beam illuminates my shirt half-floating in pool that is the lower half of my tent.  I am above the water on my air pad-cum-flotation device.  I smiled as I pulled the bottom of my bag out of the pool. My electronics, meds and other small gear are all floating in their zip locks.  Yay!  Serenaded by Martian's regularly repeating expletives, and perhaps a little less smug, I packed up my wet clothes, wet tent and mostly dry sleeping bag. ;-)

When you're wet, and it's pouring it's best to double down and get hiking.  I knew the hill ahead would warm me up as we headed out in the dark downpour.  A couple hours later the rain gave way to a drying wind.  We hiked quickly to Damascus motivated by dreams of drying out at the Broken Fiddle hostel, and getting some town victuals.  We figured we'd arrive by two or three.  But, motivated by a desire to drop our heavy, wet packs we moved rolled into town one. 

Once again, I was glad to be in Trail Town, USA.  Damascus, Virginia.  I'd posed with Serendipity last year just as Trail Days were kicking off.


Martian & I  |   April 8, 2022
    
   Serendipity & I   |   May 10, 2021

 

But, I regress.  Martian and I entered Damascus at the end of my last post.  Oy!  Digressions. Diversions.  Recursions. Excursions.

Back to Damascus ...

The Broken Fiddle

After walking through the archway we walked the next mile straight down Laurel Ave to drop our packs at the Broken Fiddle hostel and head to Wicked Chicken with Martian and Aaron for grub & brews. 

I spent a lot of time walking this small trail town the rest of that day and the next.  Miles between hostel, library, diner, outfitter, and other shops - miles that don't count.   But miles that help you get to know the town and the people.  Damascus offered plenty of new friends.   


Me & Mini-Me
Trippy Hippy & I

Crazy Larry, owner Outdoors Inn
 
Life around the Broken Fiddle is very chill - just the way I like my hostels.  Hikers hung out on the covered patio amid the snow falling outside.   Cold temps and cool people.  What do I mean?  Peach arrived with pizza and made chili with a special veggie batch for me .  Cous Cous whipped up a tasty stir fry and a deep dish breakfast pie.  Temps dropped. Snow fell, darts were thrown, music played, tales told, laughs shared.  

PaintSplash's pup shows Cous Cous how to relax


Snow falls 


Jake and I in our loaner clothes.


Treehouse

Peach

Timber
  

Hiking in Snow

Saturday morning Martian and I hiked out on a beautiful snowy day.  Light snow fell from above and as we climbed the snow below grew deeper.  We had a quick and unambitious plan.  Be picked up by a friend eleven miles north of town at 1 pm with the express purpose of returning to Damascus for more victuals and another night in a bunk.  We were successful on all counts.

Martian heads into a snowy Rhody tunnel


Joe's Pup tells me a secret at Damascus Brewing Co

Famous on Reddit

OK, not famous, but while in Damascus, Martian shows me this post by a student from Kennesaw State who we had camped with on a windy night in the Roan Highlands.

Grayson Highlands

Hiking NOBO you hear about Grayson Highlands for a couple of reasons.  Seasoned veterans tell you not to get rid of your warm clothing 'til you are past this tall part of Virginia.  And, everyone hopes to see the ponies.

Hiking north you cross VA 600 at Elk Gardens and pass through a turnstyle.  And, there are wild ponies with varying levels of human tolerance.  Last year I hiked this section and only saw a few ponies up close.  But, this year ponies were everywhere we went for two days.  


Grayson's ponies in 2021 with Serendipity and Wallflower


Martian with the first pony we saw. April 2022


We came across a group of friends who hike every other Sunday with Sadie.  Blue Daisy and Sally captivated us and gave us home made cookies.  Thanks!

Sadie wonders why I'm down on my knee
Blue Daisy & Sally
 


It was snowy in the Grayson Highlands, as it should have been.  We took a short side trip to summit Mt. Rogers, Virginia's tallest peak at 5,729'.  It was the ice box you'd expect in a Spruce Fir forest at altitude.  Well worth the time and effort to visit.


In the middle of Grayson Highlands we crossed the 500 mile marker.  Photo op!
500 mile marker, NOBO 2022



   


Guam& I @ Old Orchard Shelter


 



Aquaman!

Tues, April 12th was full of special appearances.  Heading up hill and up north I greeted a SOBO hiker, who introduced himself as Aquaman.  "Aquaman!", I exclaimed.  "I know you.  I followed your hike ... at least until I started my own."  A legend on the trail.  He started December 6, 2021 from Mt. Katahdin, Maine and hiked south through freezing temps, ice and snow.  I was expecting to cross his path in Virginian, but he was almost done with it.  With only 3 or 3 1/2 weeks to go, he was cruising.  And, as lovely a guy as you could meet.  Check out his hike here: Scott Benerofe's SOBO AT

Martian, Aquaman and I


Mighty Magic and Pizza Delivery

Martian was ahead of me as I came up behind a hiker who was heading in to Partnership slowly with painful knees.  Naturally, as we got to know each other I decided to walk the remaining miles with her.  She was completing a gap in the thru hike she started last April.  In 3 miles she would complete here thru-hike.  We had a great time walking in.  Sharing.  Learning.  Laughing.  It was magic.  Might Mouse magic.  And, her car was parked at the trail head with a case of Miller Highlife and Gatorade.

Little things matter.  Adults act like children when the pinata cracks open for the simplest things.  Beverages.  Food.  And, Food and Beverages.  You hear the whispers in the Grayson Highlands.  "You can order pizza at Partnership Shelter.  The shelter is next to the Mt Rogers State Park Office which has a phone and menus outside.  I haven't eaten pizza in a while.  But, Martin and I each ate our own pie at Partnership that eve.  The two of sat there alone in another large shelter.  Two story with room for 24.  And, we had a case of beer and pizza was on its way.  We laughed.  All was right in the evening air.  

Later when Lucky arrived and wanted pizza, Martian and I ordered another to meet the delivery minimum.  We could only eat a few more slices.  In the morning, Rollo, Squints and Mitchell rolled in and with pinata-breaking glee ate the cold pizza and warm Miller Highlights.  All was right with the morning.
Martian, Mighty Mouse & I


The High Life via Magic

Proud owner of a pizza

My pie flew away quickly



Neither Martian or I had started a camp fire since we started.  We've supported other's efforts by collecting wood on cold nights.  We'd rather just get in our sleeping bags, I guess.  But, arriving at Partnership at 3:00 gave us lots of time.  So, I got to sleep cowboy style next to the fire.  All was right with the night.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 

Sleeping cowboy with fire and moonlight



The Next 340 Miles in One Paragraph

Later thar morning, with pizza boxes, Gatorade empties and crushed cans in the HQ's dumpster we set out for a 20 mile day that would get us to mile 549, the quarter way point on the trail, and my planned exit point for a week long break in Pittsburgh.  But, my right knee was buckling every step up the first good hill.  The pain had started days earlier but today was too much.  So, Martian went on and I started to look for a ride to the hostel that Martian was hiking to.  Ranger picked me up hitching to Marion, VA.  His mother would never let him forget it if he didn't pick up a hitcher in need.  At Pike's garage, Pike was glad to rent me a 20' box truck - the only rental I could find.  A quickish drive to Erwin, Tennessee (a story I just can't get into) and a late night arrival and early departure from the lovely Quarter Inn Hostel [Sorry, Tina for my bull in a china shop imitation!].  Return the truck in Greensboro, a Lyft to the airport, and I'm on my way to Pittsburgh on American.
Ranger drove me to Marion.  Hike well, my friend

On way to Erwin, TN or Greensboro, NC??


Waiting at Reagan in DC

Immaculate Reception by Franco Harris at PIT


Home with Lizzie and Louie


My stagger towards Maine

I'll be back on the trail tomorrow hiking NOBO again with Martian.

And, trying to post more frequent, shorter posts about my knee, my crown, my hearing aid, my blood pressure, my new tent, my second new pack and so many wonderful people.

Be well.
Buddha







Friday, April 8, 2022

It’s Been So Hard. April 8, 2022. Day 38. Mile 478

Honestly, I've avoided saying this for a while.  I know yinz have such faith in me that I didn't want to disappoint.  But, honestly I've been so frustrated at times that I've thought of giving up.  Time after time I've gotten my hopes up thinking this will be the day I make this work.  But, time and time again I've been disappointed.  I look at my trail guide to see what's ahead and where I can get a break from repeatedly finding that I just can't do it.  But, I hate the thought of quitting so soon.  I've only been blogging for a month.  Who knew that blogging would be so hard!!

So far I've been 0/8 on hostels and hotels promising computers with this symbol in my AT Guide. 

  

And, the few libraries I could get to were either closed or closed shortly after I arrived.  But today is different.  Today I'm sitting at a lovely new computer with a large monitor at the Damascus Public Library.  And, they don't close for hours!  I'll review hundreds of pictures, select a few, crop some and  add them to this post. Yay!!  This blog post is getting done today!!  

And the hiking has been gorgeous, fun, faster and easier. I have been hiking through amazing beautiful, biologically rich habitats of the border between western North Carolina and eastern Tennessee - the trail runs along  the border of these two mountainous states.

It's Been So Much Fun

I've been putting on the miles.  Sitting here in Damascus I have completed AT sections in Georgia, North Carolina & Tennessee and have hiked over 472 miles.  For the last 300 miles I've been hiking with my new friend “Martian” since I entered the Great Smokey Mountain National Park.  We have been racing along the trail at the same pace.  Everyone on trail says we're fast.  And, we are when hiking.  But, we also love taking off-trail excursions to find rare plants, visit old growth forests and check off 6,000 foot peaks that are near but not on the trail.  So far, I've crested these big ones:

  • Mt Buckley 6,560 ft.
  • Mt. Love 6,400 ft.
  • Mt. Kephart's 6,217 ft.
  • Mt. Collins 6,188 ft.
  • Mt Ambler 6,120 ft.
  • Roan High Knob 6,186 ft.
  • and nearly to the top of Mt Chapman, Sequoyah and Old Black

Martian

His folks call him Bruce, but he's Martian on trail.  Like The Martian's Mark Watney (played by Matt Damon), my Martian is a botanist. So, I have been learning a lot about Rhododendron, orchids, spruce and fir. We extensively explored and documented the range of Rhododendron Smokianum, a recently identified species that only grows on steep (near 90 degree) rock cliffs above 5,500 feet where rain is plentiful and the soil rich in magnesium and iron, and only in the Smokey Mountains of Tennessee.  We found it all over the cliffs at The Jump Off, Charlie's Bunion and surprisingly in several other sites that may represent additional habitats for this rare species.  Thanks to Martian there are dozens of hikers on trail who now know all about the rare Rhododendron Smokianum, R Catawbiense and R. carolinianum, and other beautiful native plants.

Rhododendron smokianum



We've also made sure to get up early to watch the sun rise from Clingman's Dome, highest point on the AT.  We got up a couple of hours before dawn to hike the three miles with our friend Harmony and were the only ones atop this famous peak with 360 degree views when the sun rose.


And, on a morning that promised 70 mph wind gusts we awoke to light rain and moderate wind so we headed out pre-dawn to reach the Mt. Cammerer Lookout. We were rewarded for our adventure with clearing skies and a rainbow.




So, you might not be too surprised that Martian, his friend Charlie and I also hiked late to watch the sun set from Max Patch.  

And, Martian, Aaron and I set up camp at Big Bald shelter then ran back a mile to catch the sunset on Big Bald where we were joined by a confident young deer.  Ahhh, the views!


    



Unlike the blogging, the hiking has been getting easier by the day.  I mean I huff and puff (long slow deep breathes) for 8 - 10 hours each day.  If the temp reaches the 50s I sweat like a water sprinkler. My right calf starts the day in a knot.  But, three hours later the calf feels better and my hamstring takes over - tightening up as I hike to the top of the mountain of the moment.  One ankle or another feels slightly tender.  And, I know where my hip flexors are!  But, I keep hiking.  One foot in front of the other. Repeat.  And, the pain fades into the past as the miles increase.  

Speed and Distance Are One of My Things

Over the past weeks Martian and I have extended our daily miles from 15 to 18 and most recently 24.  We like hiking fast.  Martian leads and I keep up.  We power up the hills and recover on the downs.  And, if the downs are gentle or we're really motivated  ...  to get to town for beer and lunch .. we run. Weeks ago I hiked at 2 miles an hour on average.  A 16 mile hike would take 8 hours.  Lately, I'm covering ground at 2.5 miles per hour.  And, yesterday we completed our 18 mile day in under 6 hours of hiking. 

Why so fast?  Well, climbing a 2,000 foot peak is a lot of work with a pack on your back.  But, climbing it slowly, taking breaks on the way up is interminably tortuous compared to racing up to the top and catching your breath on the way down the other side.  And, I do want to finish this thing in less than five months if possible.  So, with Martian as my pacer, I move quickly through the woods.  And, it's fun.

People Are Everything

And, above the beauty of orchids, Rhododendron tunnels and 360 degree mountaintop views lies the loving kindness of strangers.  There are so many stories of folk I've met that have extended an open hand, warmed me with a smile or given my sweatiness a hug.  

Shortly after exiting the Great Smokey Mountains the trail crosses Newfound Gap, a popular site for locals, tourists and other day visitors.  The hike north from the gap is busy with families, friends and others enjoying a beautiful day trip to the mountains.  Claudia Torres, a science teacher from Miami greets me as I huff and puff up the hill she is descending with her two sons, Matias and Lucas. They asked about my plan to hike all the way to Maine along this trail.  They were kind, compassionate and my heart was filled.  My pack felt lighter.  My steps were quicker.  I was lifted once again by the loving kindness of strangers.  Well, Claudia, Matias and Lucas are strangers no more.  Be well, my friends and thanks for your supporting love.

Claudia Torres and sons Matias & Lucas


Trail angels also make our days easier, surprising us with cold drinks, snacks and more when we hit a road crossing on the trail, need a lift to the grocery store or back to the trail from town.  
Aya took us to our hotel in Erwin, TN and also drove me to the library. Trail angels like Brother Tom, Cookiemon, Zoomie, Ito and O.G. Bob have appeared with food at road crossings. Angels truly all.  Thanks to their kindness the trail is made easier.

Brother Tom met us with hot bevs and treats

Aqua Man offers yummies

Cookiemon, Zoomie, Ito and O.G. Bob feed hungry hikers

I need a photo of Aya 😐

Martian, Harmony, Freedom & Gorby at Newfound Gap with ice cold beer left by a trail angel



And, at Carvers Gap, Tennessee Martian and I met up with my 2018 hiking friend, and member of my Tramily, Sweet Tea (Anna Jones) and her mom, Susan.  They fed us a great meal and after an hour we hiked north with belly's and hearts full.  Love you, Sweet Tea.  Only thing sweeter would have been if her husband and 2018 tramily member, Moose, aka Brandon Jones, had been able to join us.  Miss you, too, my friend.


In Roan Mountain, TN we stayed at the Exchange at 19E, where we met some hiker friends, played some games and enjoyed the music that abounds there.  Gail Attaway Elkins, an accomplished pianist at the Ballet Conservatory of Asheville, regaled me with stories of her experiences playing for the Bolshoy Ballet, B.B. King and more.  What a treat!  Check her out here

Gail Attaway Elkins entertains at The Station at 19E


Sprinkles, Lindsey, Jordan, JukeBox play HeadsUp with Martian



More Friends at Every Bend

I keep meeting the most wonderful folk out here.  Jordan, one of my new friends put it well.  When you meet folks in a normal social setting you have to figure out if they're the kind of folk you would want to know.  Out here, it's almost certain that you will.  Below, a small sampling of the great folk I have met recently.  Wish I could post more, but as you know I have to finish this post and publish it today.  

I will be back to you in a couple of weeks.  If you want to here when I post please find the subscribe link and you'll be the first to know when I post next.

Be well,

John "Buddha" Inserra


Every day is a journey and the journey itself is home.
~Matsuo Basho







Me, Brian and Adam "Old Man" Botkin, Martian


Martian,Cereta "Deliberate" and husband Jim at camp

Jordan playing the Oreo game at The Exchange at 19E 


Kelly & Juniper who helped me find camp at Yellow Mtn Gap

Me and No Steps from Heidelberg, Germany

Martian and I with Taco Bell and Smiley

 
Volunteer Trail Maintainers, Tom and Hurricane Eddie


Courtney needs a trail name

As does her friend, Caitlin 😊


 Martian and I arrive at Damascus, Virginia
April 7, 1:00 PM